Magic Morocco

Nothing can really prepare you for Morocco……sure, I had seen the movies and read National Geographic; I had seen photos of the Atlas Mountains, the stunning coastline and the rippled desert, but the reality is far more wild, wonderful and exciting! Your imagination can never evoke the reality of Marrakech! My nostrils will never forget the aroma of the spices and perfumes in the air! Marrakech! The name instills thoughts of Arabian Nights and magic carpets………and yes, they are there, in all their glory. Women sit for months weaving and embroidering intricate patterns only sketched in their heads, the talent is incredible. I sat with one of these women and she showed me the skill handed down by her mother. Her knuckles were worn with thick callouses produced by years of hard work but the pride she exuded was beyond touching.
The sights; the smells; the people; the ancient buildings with jaw dropping architecture; the exotic music; the snake charmers and the souk charmers, all wanting your business - pushy and seductive. Oh yes………these Moroccan men with their dark sultry eyes and honey brown skin are a feast for your visual senses.

The endless winding souks (narrow lane ways set up with market stands and “shops”) will leave you lost in a myriad of colour and temptation. Magnificent decor items to fill your house with a touch of the east! Large to small lanterns in all shapes and sizes; hand painted ceramics bowls with silver metal ornamentation; plates, glasses for the traditional mint tea; teapots; simple kaftans to heavily brocaded gowns fit for a princess; handmade leather shoes and handbags, scarves, pashminas, jewelery....oh don't let me start on the jewelry!; spices to cook with and herbs to heal with; antiques from Arabia and old Morocco; the choice is ENDLESS and all at bargain prices.



You MUST bargain it’s imperative within this culture of mixed races. I seem to have a natural flair for it, as on three separate occasions I was asked by Moroccans if I was a “Berber woman!” I was unsure if this was an insult or a compliment. The laughter in their smiles and glint in their eyes coupled with a quick explanation told me it was the latter. No doubt you will get lost in the souks, it is impossible not to, but you can take solace that around some corner you will end up in “the square”, they say all roads lead to Rome, but not here, all roads lead to the square – formerly known as Jemaa El Fna, one of the largest square’s in the world, a place of magic and mayhem! It all really starts around 7pm – the populace all wander toward it like bees to honey! The square is so large you cannot see the other side unless you are up on the balcony of one of the surrounding restaurants.

The open food market within Jemaa El Fna offers culinary delights that tantalize your taste buds and senses; my eyes widened to the market stands filled with fresh produce. Cups of fresh orange juice squeezed in front of your eyes for 50cents! You can start with the “snail” carts; huge steaming pots of snails wait for you in a clear broth, a bowl of these tasty morsels will set you back some 50 cents……elegantly served with a toothpick and serviette! I devoured every morsel whilst Philly sat and watched me in disgust!

Tagines are on offer everywhere, as are grilled prawns, calamari and sardines or skewers of every meat imaginable. Pigeon pastries were out of season but sheep heads and spicy egg/potato rolls were ON! (Don’t worry I did not search out the sheep’s heads…Ewww!) The salads to accompany these choices were fresh and varied as was the obligatory flat bread and assorted olive bowl.

We would choose a different stand each night and then finish off the meal with another cart that offers the most delicious tea and spice cake imaginable. Served in glasses it’s a hot steaming brown heavy mixture of cinnamon, cardamom, ginger and who knows what else! It’s divine and served with a chunk of some type of spice cake. One would often have seconds and “our” fellow would pour the glasses as he saw us walking up to him……..I have yet to find the recipe for this sensational winter drink on the net!!! Please! If anyone finds the recipe write it down and add it as a comment to my blog………

As the evening progresses and you have had your fill of the music bands, the story tellers, the snake charmers; the magicians and the monkey trainers; you weave your way through the ladies wanting to tattoo your hands with henna and sellers of other artifacts and crowds, finally to reach the taxi stand at the far end to your Riad and warm bed. Your fight and bargain your way into a taxi knowing the fare to the Bab Tagzout is 30 Dirhams and no more………..(approx. $3 for a 15 minute ride!)

There are many hotels on offer in the “new town” but in Marrakech the place to sleep is in a traditional Riad within the Medina. The Medina is within a wall that protected the old city and is full of narrow winding alleys as you can see here with Philly outside our Riad.
It’s an old Moroccan style house with a central courtyard open to the sky and rooms off the balcony. We loved our Riad although it was a tad far from the square and the sights, but petite taxis at $2 a hit did not bother us. It was a delight to come “home” after the busy souks and sights and sleep in peace and quiet. The following pics are of our Riad and the view from and in my room!


There is SO much to see and do in Morocco, namely Marrakech, I will need to write 2-3 posts on it. The palaces, the ruins, and the day trips we took to the Atlas mountains to the Berber villages and the southern coast town of Essouria ……magic magic and more magic. I loved, no LOVE Maroc and will be back……again and again………stay tuned!!