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Cenote's and Caves

After fulfilling a lifelong dream of seeing the 8th wonder of the world – Chizen Itza; I sought out other unusual and interesting sights within the Yucatan Peninsula. Did you know that this south eastern area of Mexico has no surface rivers and yet the land is lush and jungle like. Unlike the other areas of Mexico we typically see on movies, it is green and smells rich and fertile. This beautiful area is made up of underground limestone caverns and rivers. Because of the nature of the geology, the water creates long caverns and sinkholes. The Mexicans call them ‘cenotes’ and it is worth coming here JUST to see them. I was blown away not just by the beauty but by the incredible perfection of them. An important one I visited ‘Ik kil’ was 60 metres across and 200 feet deep. The entrance is through a long tunnel like staircase built by the Mayans centuries ago.

The water is crystal clear and ‘refreshing’ – you had to jump in from a ledge at least 1.5 metres from the surface and climb back up a fairly wobbly ladder. There were many black looking fish which touched you as you swam. I HAD to join all those that jumped. The water was so unbelievably clean and just awesome. There was a storm that day and whilst I swam it rained down the large opening high above, the thunder clapped. It was almost scary but took my breath away. It was very exhilarating! I have never seen anything like it in all my travels. I was told the peninsula has some 3000 of these in different sizes. The locals depend on them for water and of course a divine recreation for swimming. For the ancient Mayans, they were places of sacrifice and worship. In the one at Chizen Itza archeologists scoured the bottom after rediscovering the area and found ceramics, jade, jewelry, shells, gold, many relics and of course bones! The waterfalls cascaded down the stones and rock walls and long roots stretched 26 metres down from the surface for water. It was like a place Hollywood would create for a magical movie.

After the cenotes my next stop nearby was the Balankanche Caves. I have seen many caves throughout my lifetime but once again, NEVER caves like this. A small city could live down there. They are wide and high with stalagmites hanging heavily and decorating the ceiling and walls. The actual trek through continued for over half a kilometer. Towards the end you see the edge of a smaller cenote connected to an underground river; you can see it, black and dark like a long snake disappearing into the distance. So far down into the earth the trek meandered and finally opened up into a HUGE cavern with a ‘tree like’ rock formation in the middle. Around this centre piece were a score of Mayan ceramics from over 1000 years ago. Being so far down they were preserved and in perfect condition. They brought their sacrifices down in them placing them strategically to honor the gods. I stood rooted to the spot, such ancient history placed before me to share was an incredible experience. The walk is long and you have to return on the same path; the toughest part was the lack of oxygen. Being so far into the earth I struggled to breath. At first I thought how terribly unfit I was and then realised the guide was also heaving. He said it was like being high in the mountains. No air! I don’t recommend this walk for anyone who suffers from claustrophobia or has breathing issues. Aside that it is a place NOT to be missed.

The Mexicans down here are the warmest and friendliest people I have ever met. Considering the poverty and standard of living they are happy with the simple offerings of life. I was surprised at the high standard of the autobuses, we should be so lucky to have such luxury coaches to travel around in. No graffiti, no stains, (and no chickens and baskets!!) just pure comfort with movies that work perfectly! The hotel was the same. I stayed for 4 nights at a hacienda type hotel near the ruins. The standard was exemplary, spotlessly clean, the rooms set around a courtyard setting of palms and a large swimming pool. Very quaint with delightful rooms containing archways and Mexican stucco. I ate Mexican food and tried new dishes I have never heard of. I tried and ate a ‘cactus' salad with a white sheep’s cheese and drank a delicious milky looking beverage called ‘ocheta’ – made from a Mexican root. The food was delicious all round and very fresh!

I will add the photos in the next post!!

Chizen Itza

"Welcome to Chizen Itza; may suns of enthusiasm light your way and the strength of the tiger sustain you; may flashes of wisdom enlighten your mind and the leafy cieba watch over your rest; may the emerald frog indicate your way with a song that is eternal; may Nature be generous forever and the forces of the cosmos guide and keep you! Tiptoe into Chichen Itza with the sacred respect due to it. Lend a careful ear to those old, worn stones. If you think you hear sounds, words..... Go ahead, take heart. You are on the right road!"

Cancun and Tulum Mexico

My arrival in Cancun was pretty uneventful. Everything went very smoothly until the cute custom's beagle sniffed out my bag! The customs guys swooped down on me whilst I chatted to the dog. They went through my bag only to find a little something that I bought as a gift for someone at home. It was acceptable so they let me go without confiscating it, very friendly guys! I finally took the bus into town only to find my wonderfully cheap hotel was CLOSED for renovations! Whilst wondering where I was going to stay, a little Mexican man ran out and told me in very broken English that “as my reservation was confirmed” the hotel group would put me up in the Radisson. Now I gotta tell you I cracked up laughing. The Radisson is pretty up market and about twice the price of my cheapy. Not only did I receive this fabulous upgrade, they also offered free full breakfast buffet for the inconvenience. We all know how amazing those big hotel breakfasts are! I am back there after my 4 day stint in Chizen Itza!
Wandering around town after checking in I found a well known restaurant named ‘Parilla’ – the décor within this abode was traditionally Mexican and very cheerful with an authentic band wandering around the tables. The trumpet player grabbed me for a photo; think he felt sorry for me dining alone!

After a great sleep and breakfast for a king, I headed off to Tulum, another major archeological site about 2 hours drive south of Cancun. You can hale down these ‘vans’ that will pick you up on the side of the road. They are called ‘collectivos’ and offer a decent if not very FAST drive south. (I do believe the Mexican can’t read the speed limit signs!!) We finally arrived in the area of Tulum where you find your way in the crazy heat to the ruin site.
The old city was some 1600 years old and an important port and fortification for the Mayans. It is walled on 3 sides and bordered by the sea on the 4th. The Mayans were very advanced for their time, buildings included under ground cisterns and beautiful fresco work. Time and weather has worn most of it but some parts still have the faded colours and engravings. It is interesting to note that every building had a stone alter for sacrificial offerings; what the offerings were I couldn’t find. Apparently the Mayans had 3 distinct levels within their community. The very upper crust elite whose homes were within the walls and very ornate. The intermediate level which were the trades’ men and warriors and thirdly, the servants and peasants who also rowed the long carved canoes along the shores to the port. Not unlike today really but in those days you rarely could move in-between the levels of society.

There is an excellent swimming beach below the ‘castle’ of Tulum, it was incredibly hot and most people ventured down the wooden stairs to cool off. I joined them. On the beach sunning themselves on the huge boulders were a group of iguanas. Two of these fellows were quite huge, a memento of the dinosaurs in mini form. I kept my distance…..

It is a strange feeling to be floating in the sea below a huge stone building from an ancient civilization. It was like the tiny windows were watching us, as if spirits from a long lost people were still there. You could feel it. There was a presence, as if the stones and the earth still held the stories. I almost felt we were intruders to this sacred site, but everyone showed respect as if it was an unspoken gift to be there. I could see the look of wonder in the faces of other visitors and knew others felt like I did. Like them I stood in the stinking heat, reading about each building and soaking it in. They had complex “sun calendars” and built so that the sun’s rays hit certain spots within the buildings at certain times of the year. The Mayans were a people to be reckoned with and then they just disappeared. Up until today no one knows why for sure, theory has it that drought came, depleted soil or a disease perhaps. But disappear they did and they left the remains of incredible architecture and grand buildings that take your breath away.

Tomorrow I follow a dream of mine for years and find another bus to take me to the largest and most important archeological site of them all, inland and deep within the Yucatan Peninsula – Chizen Itza!